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"Military Miniatures: Guide to Military Scale Modeling" website. This site provides a comprehensive military miniatures guide to military scale modeling to assist enthusiasts who might like to specialize in a particular sub-field like country, time period, war or type of model. Lots of great information on a multitude of modeling sites and model manufacturers. Submitted by Aubree from the Pathway To Empowerment (P2E) Youth Group. Thanks Aubree!
Hairspray Technique from Mig Jemenez's
Submitted by Jim Guld
Doing Rusty Old Stuff - Submitted by Jim Guld
Modeling Paint Database - Submitted by Jim Guld
All-Around Good Technical Tips - Submitted by Jim Guld
Face Painting - Submitted by Jim Guld
Calvin Tan's Blog. - http://zyclyon-tutorials.blogspot.com/2009/03/1_28.html
Two books I picked up from Osprey focus on one particular type of figure but both have sections in them on painting faces:
"Modeling Waffen-SS Figures" by Calvin Tan
"Modeling Fallschirmjager Figures" by Jaume Ortiz Forns & Daniel Alfonsea Romero
Fixing Warped Resin Parts. - Submitted by Jim Guld
Works good on aircraft parts too.
Making Barbed Wire - Submitted by Jim Guld
Colour Modulation by: Adam Wilder - Submitted by Jim Guld
Airbrushing different tones in base-coats to add depth and contrast helping to differentiate various details from each other on models.
Assembling Aber pe German tool clasps. - Submitted by Jim Guld
The article at the following website makes the assembling job somewhat easier.
Weld bead tool. - Submitted by Jim Guld
I found this tip in AFV Modeller #13 by Lee Lloyd.
Start with either brass or aluminum tube. I found that 1/16" and 3/32" to be the most useful sizes so far for 1/35 scale weld beads. File a flat on one end, about 1/4" long, so that you have a 1/2 circle if looking at the end of the tube. For the edge you want to chamfer it slightly on the outside edge. I also did this to the inside edge slightly with an x-acto knife blade.
Now for the putty to make the welds. - Submitted by Jim Guld
I have used milliput but you could use any two-part epoxy putty that has a long dry time. I usually let it set up a little while before I use it say 20 minutes. You want to roll this out to thin beads about .020" in diameter. Use a fine brush and add a little water to the seam where you want the weld to go and put the bead into the seam. I then wet the end of the tool and depending on which way I want the weld to look, either convex or concave; I start to make the welds. Use a slight stabbing method and keep the end of the tool wet. With a little practice you can make pretty convincing looking welds.
Snow, Ice, slush effects - Submitted by Jim Guld
I found this tip in AFV Modeller #10 by Adam Wilder.
The base material is made by Golden. They make artists materials so any good art supply store should carry them. It is called Extra Heavy Gel(Gloss). To this you can add material that you will use to create the snow, slush. I have used Woodland Scenics snow material. In the article Adam mentions he used Hudson & Allens snow material and that others have used silica. Depending on how much of this you put into the Gel will change its slushiness. Is that a word . Play around there are no hard and fast rules here.
For hanging icicles he used clear stretched sprue and added a little of the Gel to the icicle.
Coloring Fruil Metal Tracks - Submitted by Jim Guld
For Fruil metal tracks I have found that chemical blacking solutions are good for getting the track base color. There are a number of different brands, Presto-Black, Blacken-It and a company called Modern Options also makes a blacking solution. After getting the base color on I then used chemicals to get my first layer of rust. Modern Options has rust making chemical for this purpose. I then switch over and use ground pastels for the heavier rust color. I mix this with isopropyl alcohol and wash it on the tracks. After its dry I go back and take some off where the road wheels would ride and usually play around with the colors, usually using at least 2 different colors for the rust. After this I add dry pastel powders or pigments like those from Mig Pigments for road dirt. After fitting to the tank I will then add mud or more dry pigments depending on the location of the tank.
Salt Chipping Technique - Submitted by Jim Guld
I found this online at Missing-Lynx website but its also been covered elsewhere.
For heavily weathered vehicles such as in the desert or winter whitewash vehicles with heavy chipping.
The base color has to be done in enamel paint. Then your top color is done in Acrylics. I have found that kosher salt ground up works better then regular table salt due to it not being an even shape.
After the base enamel paint has dried thoroughly. I have found that using alcohol to wet the surface is better than using water. Put the alcohol on where you want the chips to be. Then add some salt and let it dry. Now you paint the vehicle with the Acrylic paint and let dry. I then then just used my fingertip to remove the salt and expose the base color below. Depending on the effect your going after you can also use alcohol to scrub the acrylic paint off to simulate worn through paint. I have also seen other article saying that they have used powdered laundry detergent to ware away the paint, but I tried this and it didnt work for me. One other material I have tried to use for worn through paint is Soft Scrub cleanser. I also picked that tip up off of the Missing-Lynx website. As with anything you have to experiment, so get an old kit or a scrap piece of styrene and play around.
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