Making Barbed Wire  -  Submitted by Jim Guld

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Colour Modulation by: Adam Wilder -  Submitted by Jim Guld

Airbrushing different tones in base-coats to add depth and contrast helping to differentiate various details from each other on models.

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Assembling Aber pe German tool clasps.  -  Submitted by Jim Guld

The article at the following website makes the assembling job somewhat easier.

http://www.bsbit.co.uk/kt/kt2.html

Weld bead tool.  -  Submitted by Jim Guld

I found this tip in AFV Modeller #13 by Lee Lloyd.

Start with either brass or aluminum tube. I found that 1/16" and 3/32" to be the most useful sizes so far for 1/35 scale weld beads. File a flat on one end, about 1/4" long, so that you have a 1/2 circle if looking at the end of the tube. For the edge you want to chamfer it slightly on the outside edge. I also did this to the inside edge slightly with an x-acto knife blade.

Now for the putty to make the welds.  -  Submitted by Jim Guld

I have used milliput but you could use any two-part epoxy putty that has a long dry time. I usually let it set up a little while before I use it say 20 minutes. You want to roll this out to thin beads about .020" in diameter. Use a fine brush and add a little water to the seam where you want the weld to go and put the bead into the seam. I then wet the end of the tool and depending on which way I want the weld to look, either convex or concave; I start to make the welds. Use a slight stabbing method and keep the end of the tool wet. With a little practice you can make pretty convincing looking welds.

Snow, Ice, slush effects  -  Submitted by Jim Guld

I found this tip in AFV Modeller #10 by Adam Wilder.

The base material is made by Golden. They make artists materials so any good art supply store should carry them. It is called Extra Heavy Gel(Gloss). To this you can add material that you will use to create the snow, slush. I have used Woodland Scenics snow material. In the article Adam mentions he used Hudson & Allen’s snow material and that others have used silica. Depending on how much of this you put into the Gel will change its slushiness. Is that a word…. Play around there are no hard and fast rules here.

For hanging icicles he used clear stretched sprue and added a little of the Gel to the icicle.

Coloring Fruil Metal Tracks  -  Submitted by Jim Guld

For Fruil metal tracks I have found that chemical blacking solutions are good for getting the track base color. There are a number of different brands, Presto-Black, Blacken-It and a company called Modern Options also makes a blacking solution. After getting the base color on I then used chemicals to get my first layer of rust. Modern Options has rust making chemical for this purpose. I then switch over and use ground pastels for the heavier rust color. I mix this with isopropyl alcohol and wash it on the tracks. After its dry I go back and take some off where the road wheels would ride and usually play around with the colors, usually using at least 2 different colors for the rust. After this I add dry pastel powders or pigments like those from Mig Pigments for road dirt. After fitting to the tank I will then add mud or more dry pigments depending on the location of the tank.

Salt Chipping Technique  -  Submitted by Jim Guld

I found this online at Missing-Lynx website but its also been covered elsewhere.

For heavily weathered vehicles such as in the desert or winter whitewash vehicles with heavy chipping.

The base color has to be done in enamel paint. Then your top color is done in Acrylics. I have found that kosher salt ground up works better then regular table salt due to it not being an even shape.